The Unofficial Guide to Whistler

Although I live in Toronto, I have been very lucky to be able to visit Whistler once, sometimes twice, every year for the past several winters. I have visited as a skier, a snowboarder, have stayed with family and purchased accommodations. I think this has given me a unique, unbiased view of the town and mountains. I’ve decided to turn my knowledge into a sort of ‘living document’ as I think of new things and receive more questions.

The background

First, the basics. “Whistler” actually refers to the Town of Whistler, population approximately 10,000. It is one of the sites of the 2010 Winter Olympics. It’s approximately a two-hour drive from Vancouver, depending on traffic and the weather. As you head further north to Whistler, your elevation increases, as does the amount of snow on the roads.

The town actually has two major mountains: Whistler Mountain and Blackcomb Mountain.

Getting there

The most logical place to fly into is Vancouver (YVR). The airport is modern and spacious, and there’s plenty to eat and drink while waiting to depart or upon arrival.

From the airport, there are several limo and bus services that will take you to Whistler. Personally, I have taken the Greyhound bus every time; it’s about a $30 cab ride to the slightly depressing bus terminal from the airport, and a round-trip bus ticket costs approximately $30 to $40. Buses leave hourly; I highly recommend the Greyhound, especially if you and a couple of friends can split the cost of a cab from the aiport. Other bus options I have researched seem more expensive.

The Greyhound makes two stops in the Whistler area: Creekside, the smaller, newer and more southern village; and the main village bus loop, which is smack dab in the middle of the action.  Creekside is about a 10-minute drive from the main village.

Should I go early season?

Most folks consider pre-Christmas 'early season' in Whistler. Visiting Whistler during early season has a couple of distinct advantages: prices are lower, lineups (and crowds in general) are smaller. The big downside, however, is that the mountains are not fully open, at least during the first couple of weeks of early season; that is, visitors typically have to 'download' (take a lift or gondola back to the base of the mountain) because there's not enough snow to ski all the way to the bottom.

Now, I've been to Whistler twice during early season, and loved it both times - even when they were having one of their worst snow years on record. To an Ontario resident like me, who doesn't have any mountains nearby, being able to ride most of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains was still phenomenal.

Early season can also have varied conditions; it didn't snow at all the last two times I visited during early season (around the first week of December). However, it's been snowing non-stop in 2006 since early November, and the mountains opened top-to-bottom on opening day. So there's both a bit of risk and some reward potential in visiting early season, but think of it this way: there's going to be snow on the trails either way.

Creekside or village?

People often ask if they should find accommodations at Creekside or the main village. You should base your choice on the following questions:

•    Do I want to save money? Creekside accommodations are slightly cheaper.
•    Do I want to be in the middle of the action? Creekside is about a $10 cab ride from the bars and restaurants of the main village, though there are also several bars and restaurants at Creekside. Creekside is not as busy or loud as the main village, and is close to many large houses for rent, so it’s considered more family-friendly.
•    Is Blackcomb important to me? There is a gondola at Creekside that services Whistler Mountain, but not Blackcomb. So, to reach Blackcomb, you need to drive into the main village, or ride the Creekside gondola to the top and then ride back down to the main village (Whistler is planning to one day connect these two mountains via gondola).

Where to stay

There are many, many lodging options that can be grouped into several categories:

•    Hotels: There are plenty in Whistler at every price level. For an inexpensive stay within the village, check out the Listel. The location and rates are both excellent. I have also stayed at Mountainside Lodge, which is also reasonably priced and features a phenomenal location.
•    Condos/houses: An excellent way to save on funds. Use the Whistler Blackcomb site or a rental site like Rentalo.com to book accommodations. Be aware that prices can range significantly, as can payment policies. Ask about tax. There are also fringe benefits to many house rentals: transit passes, hot tubs, free wi-fi, board games and the like. They can be quite small, though:  try to get an exact sense of what "sleeps six" means, for example. That could mean two bedrooms and a large pullout couch which occupies the only open space you have.
•    Pemberton: A small town about 20 minutes north that is growing every day, Pemberton features reasonably-priced condos, houses and lodges. Also features incredible views and great golf. Pemberton recently added a new lodge.

Blackcomb, main village, upper village

Whistler accommodations are split into four main areas:

•    Main village: This is the most expensive area, but is in the middle of everything.
•    Upper village: This is the Blackcomb area, and about a 10-15 minute walk or a 1 minute car ride back to the main village.
•    Creekside: As mentioned earlier, about a 10 minute car ride to the main village. The free Village Shuttle does not service Creekside, but the regular bus system does.
•    Village north: About a 15 minute walk to the main village and serviced by the free Village Shuttle as well.

The free Village Shuttle

Most areas in the main village area are serviced by a free bus service that runs every several minutes. It’s pretty sweet. Bus service to other areas of the town is fairly inexpensive (a paltry $1.50) and very reliable.

The mountains

There is literally a ton of online information on Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. Rather than repeat it, I will give a quick synopsis of what I think the strengths and weaknesses of each are.

Blackcomb: Blackcomb’s views impress me more than Whistler. The views from areas like the glacier and Seventh Heaven are simply stunning. I also find Blackcomb to be less crowded, a little icier, more difficult and a ton of fun. My favourite areas are the glacier, Ridge Runner, and Seventh Heaven. Click here for some more information on my preferred Whistler runs from a previous article.

Whistler: I find Whistler to have many more beginners on the slopes, but there are some areas that can’t be missed. The super-long ‘Peak to Creek’ run is unparalleld, and the area served by the Harmony chair is beautiful. The Dave Murray Downhill, which will serve as the Men’s Super-G course in 2010, is a must. It’s a black diamond run that’s very wide and very fast. You can ride Peak to Creek (from peak chair and red chair) and the Dave Murray Downhill (from green chair) all the way down to the Creekside gondola. If you love glades, also have to check out the new Symphony Express, which offers an incredible amount of glade and bowl riding.

Again, click here for more information on my preferred Whistler runs.

Also, as of April 2007, Intrawest has announced an amazing new gondola to be built connecting both mountains. Check out these Whistler gondola details here.

Eating and drinking

Oh man, this could take a while. My thoughts, in no particular order:

•    Splitz Grill: Located in the Alpenglow Village, this place has amazing burgers - look up 'Splitz Grill' online, and you'll see many entries associated with 'best burger in Whistler'. And because eating in Whistler can get expensive fast, the relatively low prices are a welcome sight.
•    Buffalo Bills: This is a pretty popular nightclub, with a generally young crowd. It's the largest one I've been in at Whistler. On weekends, and even local's night on Wednesday, this place gets packed fast. Lots of dancing, lots of drinking, and a nominal cover charge when it gets crowded. Worth checking out. They also serve food throughout the day, I believe. I've been there for dinner, just before it changes over to a nightclub.
•    Seppo’s on top of the mountain: Best place for a 3pm pitcher. Get one when your day is done, and enjoy being at the top of Whistler Mountain. Drink up, though, because ski patrol will tell you to get the hell off the mountain at around 3:30-4.
•    Longhorn Saloon, base of the mountain: Best place for a 4pm pitcher. Once you get down from Seppo's, continue drinking at the Longhorn; they definitely have Whistler's best patio. Click here for some more info on the Longhorn, which was also reportedly the inspiration for the Windows Live codename.
•    The Boot: This is an off-village bar that is very popular with locals. I've never been there, but keep meaning to. It's where locals go to avoid annoying tourists.
•    Pemberton Hotel: The only bar in Pemberton. Once I saw some dudes ride horses through it. Beware the lack of public transit and the $50 cab ride home after 9pm or so.
•    Milestones: Great brunch. Same prices and ambiance as any other Milestone's restaurant in Canada.
•    Grafinkels Nightclub: See Buffalo Bills. Think a little smaller and an interchangable crowd.
•    Moe Joe’s Nightclub: See Garfinkel’s or Buffalo Bills, but also think smaller and grungier.
•    Brewhouse Restaurant & Pub: Great food and great beer. Watch the trains go round and round (you'll know what I mean if I go). A really nice place to relax, and it's slightly further away from the main village... which can be nice sometimes.
•    Garibaldi Lift Co.: Close, but slightly lacking in ambiance. Head to the Longhorn, I say!
•    Moguls Cafe: Their breakfast bagels are a huge hit among locals and tourists. I ride with someone who swears he needs one every morning or he can't go up the mountain.
•    The Old Spaghetti Factory: Reasonably priced italian chain restaurant. Loaded with families when I went.
•    Dusty's: Located at the bottom of Creekside gondola, this is a good place for lunch and/or a drink after the infamous Peak to Creek Run. Also a popular nighttime/clubbing destination.
•    Tapley's: The one time I was in Whistler for March Madness, I could pretty much watch all the games at once on all their televisions. Good sports bar. Slightly lacking in ambiance, but loved by locals. In fact, last time I was there it was becoming quite popular, especially on hockey nights.
•    Black's Pub: Located right across from the lifts, Black's was packed and understaffed the night I went. Features some microbrew beer and various pizzas. Not the most extensive menu, but excellent location when all the other local bars are packed.
•   Earl's: A good place to get a slightl upscale meal or just a beer. If you've been to western Canada, you know what the deal with Earl's is: it's kind of a half-bar, half-restaurant sort of place. Slightly more expensive than some other bars in the area, but a nice atmosphere will make you want to hang out there.

I’ll add more as I think of them.

Renting and fixing snowboarding equipment

Go to Summit, just behind the Whistler gondola, for snowboard rentals in Whistler. There is another location or two in the Village if you're staying nearby. Great prices, great service – the staff is knowledgeable and friendly. Summit is also an excellent source for used equipment. If you're renting equipment, you can leave it at Summit at the end of the day and pick it up in the morning, so you don't have to drag your gear around. And if you need some repairs, chances are they can get it done for you overnight - so when you come back in the morning, your stuff is ready for you, right next to the gondola.

Most hotels have their own pro shop as well, so if you need a hole filled, a wax job or your board sharpened, chances are you won't even have to leave your hotel.

Questions, comments and suggestions for this article are appreciated. Please email me!

REVISION HISTORY

12/02/2006 (Added 'early season' section)
12/23/2006 (Apparently, The Boot no longer exists. Added several restaurants and bars [Tapley's, The Old Spaghetti Factory, Dusty's, Moguls Coffee], changed 'where to rent' section to 'Renting and fixing snowboarding equipment'. Expanded on that secton as well. General grammar cleanup. Expanded slightly on Whistler house rentals.)
12/31/2006: Some spelling and link errors fixed
2/3/2007: Added to restaurants/bars (Earl's, Tapley's, Black's Pub), added information on Symphony Express area, condo/townhouse lodging
4/18/2007: Added information on new gondola